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Mont-Saint-Michel:
Notre-Dame du Mont-Tombe
Notre-Dame Sous Terre
Notre-Dame des Morts
(i.e. Our Lady of Mt. Tomb, under the Earth, or of the
Dead)
Mont-Saint-Michel is a tiny tidal island on the coast
of Normandy, very close to Brittany, at the mouth of the Couesnon River
near Avranches. The Black Madonna is in the Western crypt also called
chapel of Our Lady of the Underworld, late 19th century, plaster statue
recalls ancient Black Madonna that was destroyed during the Revolution.
Photo: Flore
Allemandou
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As I explain in the introduction
under the sub-heading “Our Lady of the Good Death: the Dark
Mother as Guide through the Underworld,” many Black Madonnas
were associated with the realm of the dead. Since this realm was
imagined to lie deep in the earth I like translating “Notre-Dame
(de) Sous Terre” as “Our Lady of the Underworld,”
though it literally means Our Lady from under the earth. (Chartre’s
Black Madonna is the most famous one by that title. The ‘de’
is usually added in Chartres, but not often in Mont-Saint-Michel.)
The original lady of Mont-Saint-Michel was a classic example of
a Queen of the Underworld. Until the 8th century her island was
called Mont-Tombe, i.e. Mount Tomb because it was a Gallic burial
site.
Then, in 708, legend recounts, the Archangel Michael appeared to
St. Aubert, bishop of Avranches and instructed him to build a church
on the rocky islet. Aubert repeatedly ignored the angel's instruction
(for fear he was going mad) until Michael burned a hole in the bishop's
skull with his finger. Only then did he relent and build a little
cave-sanctuary among the dead. The only thing left of this oratory,
which only held about 100 people, is one wall of the crypt-chapel
called Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre.(*1)
According to Ean Begg the Black Madonna that was destroyed during
the Revolution wasn’t brought to the Mount until 867, when
a certain Bernard le Sage brought her from the Holy Land.(*2)
Before that apparently another statue of Mary was venerated in the
cave as Our Lady of the Underworld. It seems that she had to make
room for the more important statue from the Holy Land, was moved
to another chapel and became known as Our Lady of the Thirty Candles
(Notre-Dame-des-Trente-Cierges).
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In 966, the sanctuary was given to the Benedictines who turned St. Aubert’s
oratory into a church, still called Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre. This is the
oldest extant building on the mount and it dominated the island until
the 11th century. Then a great Romanesque abbey church was built on top
of it, turning it into a crypt.(*3) This church
was in turn replaced by the even greater gothic church of the 13th century
that remains today. With all this construction, the original church of
Our Lady of the Underworld was covered up and forgotten.
With the French Revolution the abbey was turned into a notorious prison
and wasn’t reclaimed for more noble purposes until about 70 years
later, in 1863. Then excavations unearthed this oldest building on the
mount and an attempt was made to restore religious life and the cult of
Our Lady of the Underworld. The chapel (also known as the Western crypt
and the place where St. Aubert found his final resting place) was rededicated
to her.
However, it proved difficult to reestablish a spiritual life on this mount.
For too many centuries, even long before the Revolution, its abbey had
been entangled in the politics and wars of the area. The various communities
of monks who inhabited the place often had a hard time focusing on spiritual
matters. And so it wasn’t until 1966 that a few monks returned to
the mount. The present monastic community didn’t settle in until
2001 and it seems that it took them a while to figure out what to do with
the 19th century plaster Black Madonna. For a long time she was deemed
as "of no artistic value",(*4) an embarrassment
that was more or less hidden in different parts of the abbey. Perhaps
because of our renewed interest in Black Madonnas the monks now deem her
something better than no Black Madonna at all. It seems that she was recently
moved from a little side room to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Underworld
in the Western crypt in order to keep the memory of the ancient Mother
of the Dead alive.
open: daily, May to September - 09:30 to 19:00; October to April - 09:30
to 18:00, daily mass at 12:15.
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*1: http://www.le-mont-saint-michel.org/histoirea.htm
*2: Ean Begg, The Cult of the Black Virgin, Penguin Books, London: 1985
p.204
*3: http://www.aly-abbara.com/voyages_personnels/france/Mont_St_Michel/abbaye_St_Michel_eglise_abbatiale_1.php
*4: Ean Begg, op. cit. p.204
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